The two terminal screws on the rear of the Ring Video Doorbell 2 are the physical interface between the low-voltage doorbell wiring in the wall and the Ring device’s internal charging circuit. They look like simple two-screw posts with captive clamping washers, but the quality of the connection made at these terminals directly determines whether hardwired operation and charging function reliably. A loose, corroded, or incorrectly made terminal connection is the source of a significant proportion of hardwired Ring Video Doorbell 2 charging failures, and it is the first thing to verify before any internal component diagnosis is attempted.
This guide covers the terminal screw design, the correct wire connection procedure for both standard wire gauges and short/damaged wires, how and when to use the included wire extenders, and what terminal connection faults look like in practice.
THE TERMINAL SCREWS: DESIGN AND FUNCTION
The Ring Video Doorbell 2’s terminal screws are located on the rear face of the device, accessible when the device is removed from its mounting plate. Two screw posts are positioned in the lower section of the rear face, labeled with wire connection indicators (the labels vary slightly between production runs but typically indicate the two AC input terminals).
Terminal design
The screws use a clamping washer design; tightening the screw drives a small metal washer down against the inserted wire, clamping it between the washer and the terminal post surface. This design is standard for low-voltage doorbell connections and provides reliable clamping for wire gauges from 18 to 22 AWG.
Electrical function
The two terminal screws are the AC input to the Ring Video Doorbell 2’s charging board. They are not polarity-sensitive; alternating current has no fixed polarity, and the two wires from the doorbell transformer can be connected to either terminal screw without affecting function.
Wire gauge compatibility
The Ring Video Doorbell 2 is designed for 18-22 AWG solid or stranded copper wire, the standard gauge range for residential doorbell low-voltage wiring. Wires outside this range (thinner than 22 AWG or thicker than 18 AWG) will either not be clamped securely by the terminal or will not fit within the terminal port.
CORRECT WIRE CONNECTION PROCEDURE
Making a reliable terminal connection requires the correct wire preparation and insertion technique. Poorly stripped or improperly inserted wires are the primary cause of terminal connection faults.
Step 1 – Remove the Ring Video Doorbell 2 from its mounting plate
Use the T15 Torx screwdriver to remove the security screw at the base of the device, then lift the device off the mounting plate. The terminal screws on the rear of the device are now accessible.
Step 2 – Prepare the existing doorbell wires
The doorbell wires emerging from the wall should be stripped of insulation for approximately 5/8 inch (15 mm) at the end to be connected. If the existing wire ends are corroded, oxidized, or show evidence of prior connection damage (nicks from previous stripping attempts), cut back 1-2 inches and re-strip to expose fresh copper.
For solid wire: The stripped end should be clean and straight, without kinks or bends in the copper conductor.
For stranded wire: Twist the strands tightly between the fingers before insertion to consolidate them into a compact bundle. Loose strands that splay out during insertion can bridge between the two terminals (creating a short) or get caught under the clamping washer incorrectly.
Step 3 – Loosen the terminal screws
Using a small Phillips-head screwdriver, loosen (do not remove) both terminal screws until the wire entry port is open; the washer should be raised enough to allow wire insertion. Do not remove the screws entirely; the captive washer assembly can be difficult to reinstall if it comes apart.
Step 4 – Insert each wire
Insert each stripped wire end fully into its respective terminal port. The stripped copper should be fully within the terminal, with no bare copper visible outside the port and no insulation entering the port.
Step 5 – Tighten the terminal screws
Tighten each screw firmly until the clamping washer is snug against the wire. The correct tightening feel is firm resistance; the wire should not pull free with moderate tug pressure. Do not overtighten: excessive torque on the terminal screw can crack the plastic terminal housing or strip the screw threads.
Step 6 – Test the connection
With the transformer circuit active, measure voltage at the terminal screws with a multimeter. The measured voltage should match the transformer’s rated output. If the reading is lower than expected, a high-resistance connection is present; re-examine the wire preparation and connection.
USING THE INCLUDED WIRE EXTENDERS
The Ring Video Doorbell 2 retail package includes two wire extenders: short lengths of pre-stripped 22 AWG wire approximately 3 inches long, with one end already prepared for terminal connection. These are provided for a specific installation scenario: existing doorbell wires that are too short to reach the Ring device’s terminal screws after the device is positioned on its mounting plate.
When wire extenders are needed
The original doorbell wires were cut to the length of the previous doorbell button, which was likely a shallower device than the Ring Video Doorbell 2. When the Ring mounting plate is positioned, the existing wires may emerge through the wall with only 0.5–1 inch of accessible wire, insufficient to strip and connect to the terminal screws.
The wire extenders bridge this gap: one end of the extender connects to the existing wire, and the other end connects to the Ring terminal screw.
Connecting wire extenders to existing wires
The most reliable method for joining the wire extender to the existing doorbell wire is a twist-and-cap connection using a wire nut (also called a wire connector or Marrette connector) appropriate for 22 AWG wire. If wire nuts are not available, a tight manual twist of the two conductors (the “lineman’s splice”) wrapped with electrical tape provides adequate contact for the low-current doorbell circuit.
Wire extender to terminal screw connection
The pre-stripped end of the wire extender connects to the Ring terminal screw using the same procedure described above: insert fully, tighten screw until snug.
POLARITY AND TERMINAL LABELING
The Ring Video Doorbell 2’s terminal screws accept AC voltage from a doorbell transformer. Since AC voltage alternates direction 60 times per second (60 Hz), there is no “positive” or “negative” terminal; either doorbell wire can connect to either terminal screw. The Ring device operates identically regardless of which wire goes to which terminal.
This is meaningfully different from DC-powered devices, where polarity reversal causes immediate component damage. Owners who reconnected their doorbell wires without tracking which wire was on which terminal can confirm: there is no consequence to having the two wires swapped.
The one exception: if the installation includes a digital chime that requires the diode included in the Ring package, the diode orientation may need to match a specific installation diagram. The diode is installed in the chime circuit, not at the Ring terminal screws, but its orientation relative to the circuit polarity is relevant. This is addressed in full in the companion guide The Role of the Diode in Ring Doorbell 2 Digital Chime Installations.
DIAGNOSING TERMINAL CONNECTION FAULTS
The following symptoms specifically point to a terminal connection fault rather than a transformer or charging board fault:
Intermittent hardwired charging
The Ring app reports the device is hardwired (shows the hardwired charging indicator) but battery percentage fluctuates up and down over time rather than maintaining or slowly increasing. This indicates a loose terminal connection that makes and breaks contact as the device vibrates (from wind, button presses, or nearby traffic vibration).
Voltage measurement lower than transformer rating
If the transformer reads 16V at its output terminals but only 10-12V at the Ring device’s terminal screws, the resistance in the connection path (corroded wire ends, loose terminal clamping) is causing a voltage drop.
No hardwired charging despite transformer within specification
If a correctly rated transformer (16–24V AC, 30VA minimum) is confirmed functional but the Ring device does not register hardwired connection, and the charging board tests normal, re-examine the terminal connections; a wire that appears connected but has no copper making contact with the clamping washer (the insulation entered the port instead of the conductor) produces this symptom exactly.
TERMINAL SCREW MAINTENANCE
The terminal screws require no routine maintenance, but the following checks are warranted whenever the Ring device is removed from the mounting plate:
Inspect wire ends for corrosion
Copper wire exposed to outdoor air (particularly in coastal or industrial environments) oxidizes. Oxidized copper appears dull green or brown rather than bright copper-colored. If corrosion is visible at the wire end, cut back 1 inch and re-strip to expose fresh copper before reconnecting.
Check terminal screw tightness
During each battery replacement or other removal of the device, briefly check both terminal screws for tightness. Thermal cycling (daily heating and cooling of the device in outdoor conditions) can cause the plastic terminal housing to expand and contract slightly, gradually loosening the screw clamp.
